How the Utility-Trend breaks with fashion-myths and reignites emancipation (one pocket at a time)

originally written in February 2019, German version below

This season designers got G.I. Jane all dressed up for the concrete jungle. Marching, rather than strutting, down the runway, models in the fashion capitals of the world repeatedly showcased one look in particular for the upcoming season: the Utility look. Stella McCartney, Fendi, Givenchy, LOEWE, and others showed military-inspired pieces with a contemporary twist.

The word, utility, etymologically derives from the Latin word, “uti,” which roughly translates to “make use of, profit by, take advantage of”. It later found its way into Old French with the word “utilité,” closely resembling the modern-day English word. 

The idea that female fashion could and should be more useful first arose in the 1940s, primarily due to rationing during WWII, and the need to cut back on fabric and exuberant detailing. Back then the preferred silhouette was characterized by broad shoulders and a slim waist. Similar feminine elements paired with urban minimalism can also be found in the Fall/Winter Collections of 2019. Even fashion history repeats itself.

The Utility Style made a comeback during the second wave of feminism during the 1970s, where the private was made political and the representation of the genders was at the forefront of the movement’s demands. After a comeback of the military look in the 90s and 2000s, the practical look is now more en vogue than ever, and not without good reason. 

Fashion has always had a tendency to touch upon the current socio-political tide; one could say they are almost inextricably intertwined. Whether it was the Suffragettes making a statement with what they wore, or more recently, the attention “Made in America,” has received in connection with FLOTUS and her fashion/designer choices. 

There are certain fashion myths we just can’t seem to escape. You shall not mix patterns; you are not to wear white after Labor Day, and pretty cannot equal practical. Women have proven to be able to set their own sails and, after decades of males wearing the pants, women now can too. However, truth be told, fashion hasn’t always given in to practicality. For example: trousers with the pockets sewn shut. Seems as if fashion has always been a power play after all. 

But behold, it seems as if our voices have been heard — Pockets! Fendi’s Utility belt or Louis Vuitton’s pocket-laden parka show that utility is not synonymous with boring. We can have our cake and eat it too. And while cargo pants may leave us after this season, we would very much like for the pockets to stick around. 

For an authentic take on the style, choose a robust and durable textile and don’t shy away from buckles. When incorporating the Utility trend into your wardrobe you might want to steer towards earth tones. But as Sies Marjan and his golden cargo pants illustrate, nothing is off limits. And isn’t that the true beauty of fashion and expressing yourself with it?  

Style and substance aren’t mutually exclusive. And in a time where it’s no Mission Impossible to have a career, be a mother, show strength, be vulnerable, and a plethora of other things, we have to make missions into visions. As Anne Klein put it: “Clothes won’t change the world. Women who wear them will.” And dressed in the Utility look, we are ready to take matters into our own hands (or put them in our pockets).